Glenn with Tracey at Macaw Bird Park, Copan Ruins.
We picked her up in La Ceiba after a week of scuba diving on Roatan and we talked non-stop for the next 2 hours bus ride to Tela. She loved our house as soon as she saw it and didn't mind the bikes leaning against the wall in the lounge and the mould on the bare concrete walls of the shower.
Our unappealing bathroom
She found the noises outside kept her awake at first, but she put up with it all with never a complaint.
Two days after she arrived, she went swimming with Glenn at the Tela beach. Her bag was stolen with her new camera along with her expensive imported pants she'd brought specially to teach dancing . Rule number 1 when you are travelling in developing countries. Never take anything valuable that you don't want to lose. That was only the start of Tracey's mishaps. An ear infection she had picked up scuba diving caused her problems for the next 3 weeks but cleared up after several doses of antibiotics. Next there was a parasite in her stomach but that soon cleared with some vile tasting tablets. All these things would have sent me into a snivelling mess, but not Tracey. She never stopped talking about the positive things in her life and how lucky she was to be in Tela with Glenn and me.
Tracey cooking the tea and instructing Glenn at the same time.
Tracey had planned before she came to torture us with rigorous pilates routines and soon had Glenn and I on a strenuous program of pilates, walking (me) and swimming and bike riding. In fact she never stopped. Have you done your Pilates Sally? And what about you Glenn? She became known as Madam Lash!
We bought a router so we could share the internet.
Glenn and Tracey at our new blue plastic table while I'm cooking tea.
Tracey quickly became a very close friend to us both. She and I finished school early this day and had coffee at the beautiful Maya Vista Restaurant on a hill that overlooks Tela. Of course she and I walked up a very steep hill to get there, but it was worth it as we could finish up with luscious French crepes spread with chocolate and cream.
She became an immediate hit with the children at school. Here she is with a very special secondary student, who had calipers on her legs and has great difficulty walking but is very bright, and cheerful and speaks perfect English.
The children loved their dance classes with Tracey and she had wonderful Latin talent to work with. There was dance fever in the school.with children changing out of their drab school uniforms into the sexiest dance clothes whenever they could. Some of the boys objected at first to taking off their shoes but she had everyone of them comforming and performing exotic routines in a very short time.
Everyone loved Tracey with her blond hair and her tall ballerina body. When I walked with her down the street, I used to pretend to myself they were all looking at me, but really I knew it wasn't the truth. Men would stop and stare and then help her with anything she needed. She truly was a film star.
Tracey on crutches.
All wasn't good for Tracey. A robbery, a parasite and ear infection were only the start of her troubles. After a wonderful day in a cave with a river and hot springs in the mountains a puff of burning hot steam spurted out at her foot just as she was crossing the river for the last time. She had first and second degree burns just below her ankle, causing her agony at first and then even worse, when the wound became badly infected. Luckily she had really good medical care with 7 daily injections in her posterior and strict instructions not to put her foot to the ground.
She tried to take classes for a few days as she hopped across the classroom, still with a smile on her face but finally she succumbed to a week off school. Her biggest complaint of course was she couldn't do pilates, swim or even ride a bike.
A week before school finished, when she still had trouble putting her foot to the ground she was in total charge of the end of year Christmas concert with every class from Grade 1 to Grade 6 putting on a n evening performance for the parents. It was brilliant, the stars being Glenn’s 5th Grade class, who would have definitely won first prize at any eisteddfod.
Grade 1 children performing the bumble bee dance with Tracey leading from the side.
The Tela beach at sunset.
For the last weekend Tracey was in Tela and still walking on crutches we took her to a disreputable disco that just happened to be open on the Sunday afternoon. At least she could watch people doing her most favourite thing in the world even if she couldn't do it herself. After the disco we moved along the beach to a probably safer part of Tela where people were swimming in the water and watched this amazing sunset.
We toasted our last few days with Tracey.
We'd been wondering for months what had happened to Pizzeria Rome that had been open across the road from us when we'd first arrived. Jose, the owner had disappeared and gradually the business had folded up Each day Jose's daughter arrived with her baby and appeared to be very busy. No more tasty American pizzas were being made so our easy Sunday meal was no longer available.
We discovered another pizza place in the centre of town with the same name and had a meal there to see if this was Jose's new place. It wasn't and the meal was not good. But we did have fine Chilean red wine! It was served to us in large paper cups. Tracey put up her foot on the back of my chair to ease the pain and her crutches on the floor. If you look closely you can see the nasty red burn mark.
Tracey's bad luck did not finish there. On her final night in Tela, we went to another popular high class discoteque with Vanessa for a meal. The price was astronomical, like Hobart prices.
Tracey was the only one to have fish soup. After we got home she vomited so violently for 3 hours that Glenn and I sat on the pavement at 2am hoping for a taxi to come past so we could take her to the hospital. Fortunately she came to the end of her vomiting before any taxi arrived and lay exhausted on her bed, on her side, and went into a deep sleep. We went to bed with our door open and the light on, hoping she would alert us if she got worse. We would have had to walk to the hospital for help if she'd needed it because we couldn't get anyone to answer their phone. Tracey was rather seedy the next day but she fortunately recovered fully by the end of the day.
I don't know how all these things could happen to one person, and a really nice person at that in such a short time. But I do know they way she handled it all was incredible and certainly helped to form a very strong bond between the three of us, a thing that seems to happen frequently in this wild country of Honduras. Tracey has gone to Cuba now and then will be returning to Australia, a new person to the one that arrived in Honduras only 3 months ago. We're going to miss her deeply but we do know she is not going to be far away from us in Hobart when we finally head back home ourselves.